I have known Freemans Marsh for almost 80 years, and without doubt I consider
it to be the jewel in Hungerford’s very precious crown. A place of
such wonderful freedom for us all, but especially for children, it would
be difficult to replicate in other towns as its status within the framework
of the Town & Manor Charity gives it such a privileged position. I am
pleased to be a Trustee of this important Charity and quite correctly I am
sometimes accused of holding a romantic view of the Marsh, which differs
from the business-like approach of my colleagues.
This (criticism) is not considered unreasonable by myself, but my boyhood
contains memories of a less commercial approach to Marsh management. There
was regular swimming in the canal to the west of Marsh Lock, always attended
by the utmost decorum and boys and girls changing areas were carefully preserved.
In those days nothing moved on the canal, and in spite of the stagnant water,
it was clear and almost clean and certainly by comparison with ‘’The
Broads’’, considerably warmer. Maybe many readers won’t
know of ‘’The Broads’’. This was officially designated
as the town swimming place on the River Kennet. An area set aside by the
Town & Manor in the 30’s, it was properly set up with separate
changing rooms and was a straight 50 yard stretch of River swimming. The
argument over the pros & cons of the ‘’Broads’’ swimming
could be the subject of a separate article, but I well remember the school’s
organised swimming periods involved a crocodile of children down Fairview
Road over the Railway and along the north bank of the Canal to the River
Kennet.
To return to the Marsh (never called Freemans Marsh in my boyhood), we roamed
where we wished, in and out of the rivers, which very definitely contained
a much greater volume of water than today, and there was much more water
control also. I am not sure of the reason for the lack of water but I am
suspicious of the effect of water extraction has on the underlying water
table. Hatch water control was very essential to the holders of Strongrove
allotments. The quite vigorous stream flowed where there is today a completely
blocked channel and was wholly dependant on Ash Pool hatch allowing water
to flow.
Equally attractive and certainly a spot for mothers with small children,
was the ‘’rushing’’ water, so called because it powered
through a concrete hatch in the middle river, and on the down stream side
was an ideal depth for small children to paddle in. It was much favoured
over the Ash Pool, as almost all visitors approached the Marsh on the north
bank of the canal when they left the Church swing bridge. There were stepping
stones over the Shalbourne overflow and a convenient stile gave access to
this favoured spot. This footpath disappeared after the 1957 introduction
of a draft definitive map, as there was a disputed ownership of the bank
but it was felt to be a sad loss to many people.
It seems incredible now but on the day that the town’s new open air
swimming pool at the War Memorial Recreation Ground was opened in 1963, I
attended officially as a Trustee for that project, but as soon as the ceremony
was completed I joined my wife and two sons on the banks of the ‘’rushing
water’’ to enjoy the peace and tranquility of the Marsh.
I recall quite clearly that Dr. & Mrs. Max Wallis also sat on the grassy
bank to chat on that afternoon. It may interest readers to remember that
the other Trustees of the Town new pool project were Col. Jackie Ward, Philip
Spackman and Humphrey Hope.
To move on to my service in the towns Fire Brigade we were frequent visitors
to the Marsh Lock for ‘’deep lift’’ pumping tests
or open water drills. This always resulted in great fun!!
One of the features of the Marsh is the very ancient hedge growing from Cobblers
Lock to the railway which divides the more recently acquired Rootes Meadow.
In the 70’s when I was chairman of the Town Landscape Group, we requested
a survey from Reading Museum and they declared the hedge to be 1000 years
old and this has been confirmed quite recently.
It would be remiss of me to conclude this article without a mention of the
considerable disappointment and even anger which is expressed to me by very
many people concerning the present wire fencing project. I do not enjoy being
continually on the defensive, but I have tried to protect the interest twixt
the Trustees and the Public. I would say that at least the fences are plain
and not barbed wire. I just wonder what artists and photographers will make
of it, the beautiful River Dun with fences.
There has been another contentious issue on the Marsh concerning the loss
and re-instatement of the Pegasus Bridge. The original single plank, single
rail bridge on F.P.52 was much improved by the Walter family, but that fell
into disrepair and has now been replaced by a very very expensive but good
looking bridge at the expense of West Berks taxpayers.
To conclude, as I grow older I love to visit the Marsh through all the seasons.
My normal daily habit is a walk in the early morning, and these days I need
a walking stick, but it is wonderfully invigorating. Sometimes its even better
to walk in the late evening and then to stand and look and listen to the
Freemans Marsh, a quite magical experience.
Jack Williams